Nothing helps keep the energy levels up than a little R&R… and having the opportunity to spend a little time in a warm, sunny climate in the middle of winter keeps this Chicago boy sane. For the third time in as many years, I have had the occasion to spend some time in Mexico’s fabulous and affordable Puerto Vallarta and I thought I would share some of the highlights of this wonderful destination.
Each year a small group of friends gather in the sun and we choose a private condominium located on Playa Meurtes just off the Zona Romantica or the old town area. The Zona Romanica is known for its great dining, unique shops and great nightlife. The beach offers many activities (parasailing is the best time) and private palapas.
Each day we gather under the palapa and enjoy the beach life. Nothing is better than relaxing in the shade while we are waited on by a very attentive waiter (Memo has been our regular waiter each year and he is terrific). One can also shop while lounging on the beach. Vendors stroll throughout the day offering a wide range of souvenirs and “must haves”. If you don’t see what you want, just ask. Christina has been a vendor on the beach for years and you can always hear her approaching by her “How Many? How Many?” She takes very good care of our group. Remember to bargain, it’s expected!
After the beach, we retire to our condo and clean up and have cocktails on the balcony as we watch the sunset. Then it’s time for dinner. Puerto Vallarta offers a wide range of diversions; I have selected just a few of my favorites of varying price ranges. Each provides a good sense of the Mexican culture and wonderful food.
Café des Artistes
In a century-old home on the hill overlooking the Malecón in the heart of Puerto Vallarta’s gallery district, Cafe des Artistes not only offers fine dining at its most elegant, but has also earned a distinguished reputation as one of the best restaurants in Mexico. Thierry Blouet's immense energy and enthusiasm for excellence is reflected in his cuisine, which highlights both his own intuitive ability to prepare mouth-watering dishes and a uniquely personal gift: an intense sense of art and beauty. Wednesday evening the galleries are open for their weekly “gallery walk” which makes this a perfect time to visit. Enjoy the lovely art and finish the evening with an exquisite meal in the café’s lovely garden.
Las Caletas Beach Hideaway
Las Caletas was once the private home of film director John Huston who considered it one of the most beautiful places in the world. Nestled in a secluded nature preserve on the southern shores of Banderas Bay, Las Caletas is now an exclusive tropical beach hideaway which allows guests to day visit.
Las Caletas is so isolated and unspoiled, it’s only accessible by sea, guests climb aboard a first class catamaran and sit back and marvel at the most fantastic scenery the Mexican Pacific has to offer.
Whether you want to bask in the tropical sunshine on the beach, climb into a hammock and chill out in the shade, or indulge in a therapeutic massage or facial at the hilltop Spa Center - it's all about taking it easy to re-invigorate your mind, body and soul in one of the most beautiful settings on earth.
Throughout the day our expert guides will be on hand to offer snorkeling, scuba diving and kayaking tours giving everyone the chance to discover and explore the calm, clear waters and hidden charms of this isolated cove. Away from the water there's an abundance of other activities; learn to cook paella, discover Las Caletas' prolific flora and bird life on a walk through the jungle, orchid gardens and interactive parrot center, or explore the natural amphitheater and the Mayan Pyramid that serves as center stage for the contemporary dance performance of the Rhythms of the Night tour.
The Markets
Puerto Vallarta has no shortage of upscale shops, but for many the real fun of shopping begins at this sprawling, two-story flea market. Vendors offer just about anything, and bargaining is all part of the game. Most of the time, expect to pay about 20 percent less than the initially stated price, but this varies. Outside of high season, or if the stall keeper is tired of looking at a piece, even deeper discounts are possible. Look for leather goods, Mexican silver, pottery and woven items. Credit card acceptance varies by vendor.
Flowing from the jungle-filled mountains above Puerto Vallarta, the Rio Cuale cuts right through the heart of this majestic city. Before emptying into Banderas Bay, this river provides several unique activities to Puerto Vallarta’s visitors. One of the most overlooked sites in Puerto Vallarta is Isla Rio Cuale, a natural island in the middle of the river near the city’s downtown area. Though Isla Rio Cuale is only six blocks long and one block wide, there is much to do and see any time of year.
Though Isla Cuale might not receive much more than passing mentions in travel guides, the island has become an integral part of Vallartan culture. It is believed the island was created many years ago after a strong rainy season caused the river to overflow and sediment to collect in its center. As Puerto Vallarta developed in the mid-20th century, the island came to serve as the unofficial center of the city’s casual pedestrian culture. Bridges were constructed off nearly every side of the island, connecting Isla Rio Cuale to several of the city’s most desirable neighborhoods. Today, the island boasts numerous shops and restaurants, an archeological museum, a popular nightclub, miles of peaceful trails, amazing scenery and one of Mexico’s largest public markets – the Rio Cuale Flea Market. Besides being a distinctive tourist destination, the island and its unspoiled nature serve as an urban oasis for the city’s residents.
Well, I hope you enjoyed my tour of Puerto Vallarta. When you decide to visit, I hope you enjoy yourself as much as I did.